Moscow lies in the center of what is known as European Russia. The border between Europe and Asia runs down the west side of the Ural Mountains, 1300km (805mi) east of Moscow. To the east of Moscow is the south-flowing Volga River, one of Russia's historic highways. Moscow's origins as a symbol of Russian spiritual and political power go back 850 years, so it's no surprise that today the city is the barometer and nucleus of the changes sweeping through Russia. Its vitality and chaos are a direct result of the collapse of communism and the efforts of its citizens to reinvent their lives. The populace now prefer impromptu street markets to the huge state department stores, and churches which were destroyed or abandoned during the Soviet era are being lovingly restored. But the real flavour of this city is in its small nooks and crannies, each of them unique. .